Start with the original yarn
I note its weight category, length per ball, fibre content and the pattern gauge. Those numbers tell me much more than the brand name. If the designer describes why they chose it, I pay attention: softness, stretch and structure can matter as much as thickness.
Match the fabric you need
A bag needs to hold its shape, so working with a smaller size hook or needles and acrylic yarn might be the better choice. A scarf should feel good against skin, so maybe opt out of a scratchy-feeling yarn. A fitted sweater needs the right gauge and drape. Even two worsted yarns can give a different result, especially if their fibres or construction differ. I compare the details of a possible Ribblr Yarn substitute with the yarn named in the pattern, then make a swatch in the actual stitch.
Calculate by length, not ball count
Three balls of the original yarn do not necessarily mean three balls of the new yarn. I use the total yards or meters required and divide by the length in the new ball, rounding up to a whole ball. For a striped project I do this for every color. The ball count guide has a worked example.
Check what changed
After a swatch, I measure gauge and look at how the fabric feels. If the size matters, I wash or block the swatch as I would the finished item. A yarn swap may also change the finished size of an amigurumi toy, even when the stitch count stays the same. If the result is wrong for the project, I try another yarn rather than forcing the pattern to fit it.
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