This is my Bee toy rattle pattern. It's so adorable and easy for a child to hold and carry. This crocheted baby toy will help the child feel secure and beloved. And makes for some super cute baby photos! It's made with a super soft chenille yarn and cotton yarn. Have fun crocheting and I would love it so much if you would pin this post or share it on facebook! It would mean the world to me! Copyright © 2023 Swecraftcorner This pattern is copyright protected and the property of swecraftcorner and may not be reproduced, sold, copied, or altered in any way, shape or form, please respect this, of course you can share the link directly. You may sell finished item that you made with this pattern (but not in wholesale or mass produce) as long as you credit me for design and include a link back to my webpage www.swecraftcorner.com. You may not use my pictures when selling your finished item. If you love the pattern please share the link with your friends, I would be so happy if you did! Disclaimer This Post may contain affiliated links, clicking on those links do not cost you a penny, unless you make a purchase in which case I may get a small commission at NO extra cost to you! However, I never recommend yarn or products I don't actually like myself! Pattern info The Bee is crocheted in two parts. The body as one part and the wings as one. The body is made by using yellow and black cotton yarn and yellow chenille yarn. The wings are made with white cotton yarn. This pattern info can be applied in part or in full to all the patterns designed by Swecraftcorner. Please read the whole pattern before starting to make sure you have an understanding of how the item is made and if there are anything to consider before starting. Check your gauge and if needed go up or down a size on your hook. Your gauge is checked by making a square with the stitch used in the pattern, how many you will start with is usually written in the pattern and then for as many rows as written. If your square is bigger than 10x10cm (4"x4") you may need to adjust your hook size to a smaller size and if it's smaller you may need to go up in size. If your gauge is still inaccurate you may need to consider trying another yarn. When choosing yarn for a pattern I have designed please keep in mind that the same type of yarn can vary in thickness between color batches. The finished product may vary in size even if your gauge check was spot on. This can happen for a number of reasons. If you are working on your project over several days you may use different tensions when crocheting. For example I always make the soles of slipper or shoes on the same day and even in the same sitting because something as simple as changing my position can mean that I crochet harder. And if I have had a bad or a good day this can also affect how much tension I use while crocheting. In most patterns you will find the number of stitches you should have when each row or round is finished written within brackets (-). If not otherwise stated when a number of chains is used to start a round or turn a row these does not count as a stitch. You will therefore have to make your first stitch directly below your chains. See pictures below. (These pictures are from another pattern and is just shown as an example) if the pattern you are currently working on is crocheted in rounds it may look a bit different. If a round is finished by a slip stitch you will, if not otherwise stated, make the first stitch of the next round in the same stitch as your slip stitch. Each time you will make a different stitch or number of stitches change it is shown by a , . For example: 1 sc, 2sc in next st, 1 sc in 4 sts. Means that you will make 1 single crochet in your first stitch, in your next stitch you will make 2 single crochets in the same stitch, and in the next four stitches you will make 1 single crochet in each separate stitch. When a sequence of stitches are repeated these are written within * - * and the total number of times the sequence is repeated is written after. If the instructions for several sizes are written on the same row the specific number of stitches for each size are separated with /, if there are no / on a row in such a pattern the numbers apply to all sizes. If you have any trouble with a pattern designed by Swecraftcorner please feel free to reach out and I will do my best to help you. All of my patterns are copyright protected. Terms (standard US) These are the terms I use when I'm making my patterns. Some stitches may have more names than one out in the crochet world but these are the one's I'm using. Ch - Chain Ch-sp - chain space Ch2 space - the space made from chaining 2 the previous row Sl st - slip stich St/sts - stitch/stitches Sc - Single crochet Hdc - Half double crochet Dc - Double crochet Sk - Skip Mr - Magic ring Vsc – Waistcoat single crochet Vhdc - Waistcoat half double crochet Sc2tog - Single crochet two together (decrease) Hdc2tog - Half double crochet two together (decrease) Dc2tog - Double crochet two together (decrease) 2sc - two single crochets in the same stitch (increase) 2hdc - two half double crochets in the same stitch (increase) 2dc - two double crochets in the same stitch (increase) Sc3tog - Single crochet three together (decrease) Hdc3tog - Half double crochet three together (decrease) Dc3tog - Double crochet three together (decrease) 3sc - three single crochets in the same stitch (increase) 3hdc - three half double crochets in the same stitch (increase) 3dc - three double crochets in the same stitch (increase) Fpsc - Front post single crochet Fphdc - Front post half double crochet Fpdc - Front post double crochet Front post are made around the post of the previous round from the front of your work (right side of work facing you, hook inserts from the front) Bpsc - Back post single crochet Bphdc - Back post half double crochet Bpdc - Back post double crochet Back post are made around the post of the previous round from the back of your work (right side of work facing you hook inserts from the back) Back loop - Back loop refers to the two loops you see when looking at your stitches from the top. The back loop is the loop that is facing away from you Front loop - Front loop refers to the two loops you see when looking at your stitches from the top. The Front loop is the loop that is closest to you