This sweater is constructed as a top-down sweater, starting around the shoulders. Then the edging and the sleeves are added. You can opt for a shorter/longer sweater by omitting/adding length (this will use less/more yarn than stated).
The sweater has -1 to 1" of ease, so is closely fitted to the bust. The sweater has a “boxy" fit, and there is no waist shaping. The body ends in an edge that is slightly tighter to sit at the top of your hips. The sleeves will also have that boxy shape, with a fitted cuff around the wrists.
If you choose to use a heavier yarn, like cotton, the sweater could drag down from the shoulders. To overcome this, you could add an elastic band to the yoke to keep it on the shoulders.
Turning chains do not count as stitches.
Pattern is written for the smallest size, with the stitch counts for the larger sizes in the parenthesis; 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8). At the end of the round the stitch count for the row is given as follows: (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8).
To meet gauge is essential for the correct fit of the garment. Gauge in the width is more important than height in this pattern. After blocking the gauge should be:
17 st and 14 rows = 4" square in Tunisian Honeycomb stitch in the round for the body, using the two-sided hook, using the 6 mm (US J/10) side for the FwdP and the 5.5 mm (US I/9) side for the RetP or any other to get gauge.
I recommend to ch any even number (if you chain 34 or more, gauge is easier to measure in the round) in your MC and start the RetP in your CC. Make the swatch, block and measure.
18 st and 22 rows = 4" square in sc for the edging, using the 5 mm (US H/8) traditional hook or any other size to get gauge.

Ribblr generates abbreviations, they might not be correct, please use this list for the correct abbreviations:
Ch – chain
FwdP - Forward Pass
RetP - Return Pass
PM - Place Marker
Tss - Tunisian simple stitch
Tps - Tunisian purl stitch
Slst – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Sc2tog – single crochet two together
Sk - skip stitch